Welcome to Russia

Russia has held a special place in my heart and mind, dating back to
my student days when it was still the Soviet Union. I have been an
avid reader of Russian literature—both fiction and non-fiction—since
school, which has made the country feel incredibly close to me. By the
time I embarked on this journey, I already knew a great deal about
Russia—rather, the Soviet Union—and was eager to explore it further.
I was a regular reader of Soviet Desh, a magazine published and
distributed by the Soviet Embassy in New Delhi. This exposure gave
me a broad understanding of Russia’s development in various fields,
including science, technology, agriculture, art, and culture, long
before I had the chance to visit the country.
When I was a school student, Yuri Gagarin went into space on
April 12, 1961, becoming the first human to do so.
I was an admirer of Yuri Gagarin. I hung his smiling portrait in a
cosmonaut’s suit in my study room, which I would often hug for a
short while. I even dreamed of becoming an astronaut myself, though
I soon realized it was only a fantasy.
I was also an admirer of another cosmonaut, Valentina
Tereshkova, the pioneering cosmonaut who made history as the first
woman to journey into space on June 16, 1963.
During my college days, I was deeply influenced by Russian
literature, though the works were translated into English. My

favourites included Mother by Maxim Gorky, Crime and Punishment by
Leo Tolstoy, and Doctor Zhivago by Boris Pasternak, which I also saw as
a film. I read the Gulag Archipelago by Alexander Solzhenitsyn, a
dissident author who raised global awareness about political
repression in the Soviet Union. I also read And Quiet Flows the Don by
Mikhail Sholokhov. In English literature, I read 1984 by George
Orwell, which focuses on totalitarianism and the repressive
regimentation of people. Crime and Punishment is known to have
inspired the thinking of Mahatma Gandhi. There is a prominent
statue of Leo Tolstoy at the premises of the Central Cottage Industries
Corporation of India, where I served as managing director for over
four years. The area is called Leo Tolstoy Marg, near Janpath, in New
Delhi.
I was a keen observer of developments in the Soviet Union,
staying updated through the embassy’s publications in New Delhi,
which provided valuable insights into the country’s affairs.
(a) I was particularly interested in reading about the various
leaders of the Soviet Union. Nikita Khrushchev (1953-1964)
initiated the process of de-Stalinization, and I even had the
opportunity to read Khwaja Ahmad Abbas’s book Khrushchev Kya
Chahata Hai (What Khrushchev Wants), which gave me a deeper
understanding of his vision.
(b) Leonid Brezhnev (1964-1982) implemented certain
domestic reforms, but his tenure was often associated with economic
stagnation and decline.
(c) Mikhail Gorbachev (1985-91) introduced significant reforms
such as Perestroika and Glasnost, paving the way for democratic and
economic changes that ultimately contributed to the dissolution of
the Soviet Union.
When I moved to Ranchi to pursue my B.Sc. at St. Xavier’s
College, I was struck by the large number of Russian engineers and
workers employed at the Heavy Engineering Corporation (HEC), a
Government of India undertaking. The Russian community had a

dedicated hostel in Dhurwa, Ranchi, as well as their own exclusive
residential colony. They would often visit shopping areas in Ranchi,
usually travelling in their own bus. Their presence infused Ranchi
with a vibrant, cosmopolitan energy, and regularly organized cultural

events showcasing Russian heritage. As an active member of the Indo-
Soviet Cultural Society (ISCUS), I made it a point to attend these

events and engage with the community. This involvement led to an
opportunity to visit Russia as a part of an ISCUS delegation. In 1969,
we celebrated Vladimir Lenin’s birth centenary at the Russian Hostel,
where I participated in an essay competition titled ‘Lenin As I See
Him’, in which I won the first prize. The Russian photographer who
took my photograph while I was receiving the award told me that it
would be published in Moscow newspapers.
My connection with Russia, or the Soviet union as it was then,
began during my student days and remained strong over the years. I
was always eager to visit Russia, and an opportunity finally arose
when I was invited to participate in an international handicrafts fair
in St. Petersburg. At the time, I was serving as the Managing Director
of the Central Cottage Industries Corporation of India (CCIC).
However, the authorities felt that my presence was more crucial at the
office in New Delhi, and consequently, the trip did not materialize.
I have had the opportunity to visit many countries, but Russia has
always held a special place in my heart. The country has been a
steadfast friend of India, and I have always been eager to explore it.
The dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991 led to the emergence of
several independent nations, marking the end of the Cold War era.
The world transitioned into a unipolar order, with America as the
dominant power. The influence of the United Nations had waned,
and this shift contributed to global instability, evident in conflicts in
the Middle East, Iraq, Libya, Palestine, and Gaza.
In early 2019, I booked a trip to Russia through a Delhi-based
travel company. Later, they informed me that travel to Russia was on
hold due to a mysterious virus. Little did I know that Covid-19 would

soon spread globally, leading to the cancellation of my trip. This
experience left me feeling that my travel to Russia was not meant to
be. Despite this setback, my fascination with Russia remained
unchanged.
I had been planning a trip to Russia for the end of 2024, fully
aware of the potential challenges posed by the language barrier and
currency restrictions resulting from U.S. sanctions on Russia,
stemming from its conflict with Ukraine. The conflict, fuelled by
Ukraine’s desire to join NATO and Russia’s security concerns, has
been ongoing. In August 2025, a summit between Donald Trump and

Vladimir Putin took place in Alaska, marking a potential shift in US-
Russia relations. However, the Russia-Ukraine conflict remains

unresolved, with Ukraine’s president Zelensky facing criticism from
Trump for his stance.
I have always been fascinated by Russia and had planned to visit
it in early 2025. I previously had opportunities to interact with
Russian professionals and appreciate their cultural events in Ranchi
and later in New Delhi. As a life member of the India Council of
Cultural Relations (ICCR), under the Ministry of External Affairs,
India, I have enjoyed cultural programmes from around the world,
including those from the Soviet Union and Russia. Despite the
geographical distance, I have always felt a strong connection with the
Russian community.
I prefer structured visits to countries, which become easier when I
have contacts such as friends or family. Otherwise, I rely on the Indian
Embassy for guidance and support. On this occasion, I reached out to
the Indian Ambassador to Russia, Vinay Kumar, an IFS officer of the
1994 batch, who hails from Muzaffarpur, Bihar. He promptly
connected me with the Head of Chancery at the Indian Embassy in
Moscow, Rajnish Patidar, an IFS officer of the 2020 batch, from
Indore, Madhya Pradesh. Coincidentally, Patidar is a batchmate of
my cousin, Shabbir Alam, an IAS officer of the 2020 batch of the
Tamil Nadu cadre. Patidar helped organize my programme and
introduced me to Rajiv Gupta of Cosmo Travel Company, who has

family ties in Hazaribagh. He assisted me in booking star-category
hotels at reasonable rates.
On July 25, we were scheduled to board an Aeroflot Russian
Airlines flight from Delhi to Moscow at 5 a.m. Before boarding, we
spent some time at the Encalm Lounge, Terminal 3, Indira Gandhi
International Airport, New Delhi. As we had already had dinner, I
opted for some sweet treats and elaichi (cardamom) tea instead. The
lounge was bustling with international travellers, and I noticed a
young couple dressed in matching black attire. The lady was
engrossed in reading The Perfect Marriage by Jenova Rose while
listening to music on her headphones.
As we prepared to board the flight, nostalgia washed over me as I
reflected on my long-held wish to visit Russia, a country that has
always been a true friend of India. I was thrilled to finally make the
journey, admiring Vladimir Putin’s leadership and foreign policy,
particularly in the face of challenges from American presidents. The
ongoing Russia-Ukraine war, which began on February 24, 2022, is a
complex issue with roots dating back to 2014.
I was delighted to embark on this journey with my brother,
Mohammad Jamil Ibrahimi. We boarded Aeroflot Flight SU0233 at
4:15 a.m, and it departed on schedule at 5.05 a.m. The pilot
announced a travel time of six hours and forty minutes, covering a
distance of 2,726 miles. Upon arrival at Sheremetyevo International
Airport (SVO) at 9:15 a.m. local time, we were greeted by Nikolai and
Dennis, who were holding a placard with our names. We then
boarded a black sedan bearing an Indian flag on the windscreen and
headed to the Holiday Inn Suschevsky, Moscow, where we checked in
at 2 p.m. Our room no. was 1514. After settling in, we explored the
surrounding area and picked up takeaway chicken butter masala and
tandoori roti from a nearby restaurant, Darbars, an Indian eatery. A
large Ganesha statue stood at the entrance, adorned with Indian
cultural decor. The restaurant, owned by an Indian Hindu, employed
Muslim cooks and students and was bustling with activity in the
evening.

On July 26, we had a packed schedule. After a complimentary and
sumptuous breakfast at the hotel, we booked a taxi on Yandex Go, an
app that proved extremely helpful throughout our tour. We headed to
Moscow’s largest mosque, the Cathedral Mosque, where we offered
the noon Zohr Namaz behind the Imam. At the entrance, posters
showcased President Vladimir Putin’s visits and interactions with the
Imam and others, highlighting Russia’s commitment to religious
freedom and harmony among different communities. The mosque’s
infrastructure was grand and beautiful, featuring gold-plated artwork,
rich woodwork, and an elaborate wazu (ablution) arrangement.
Adjacent to the mosque stood the Olympic stadium, which was closed
for repairs, with construction work underway on the nearby road.
These structures were visible from my hotel room window and bed,
appearing golden and glittering in the morning sunlight and
beautifully illuminated at night, a sight I enjoyed throughout our stay.
During the Soviet Union era, religious activities were heavily
restricted, including in Central Asian countries with predominantly
Muslim populations, where Islamic rituals were limited or even
prohibited. The century-long occupation by Russia and the Soviet
Union had both positive and negative impacts. On the one hand, it
integrated these regions culturally and economically into the Russian
system; on the other, it suppressed country-specific aspirations,
adversely affecting Islamic and cultural practices. The adoption of the
Russian language and culture was made compulsory. Mosques were
closed, Islamic rituals were banned, and even Christianity faced
certain restrictions. The dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991
brought freedom to these occupied countries, allowing them to revive
their religious and cultural practices, with the Russian language
continuing to serve as a unifying link.
Russia promotes communal harmony, with the state maintaining
a neutral stance on religion, despite approximately 67% of the
population identifying with various forms of Christianity.
Russian President Vladimir Putin inaugurated Moscow’s largest

mosque, which was renovated with contributions from Turkish
President Recep Tayyip Erdogan and Palestine President Mahmoud
Abbas, alongside the Grand Mufti Imam. With an estimated two
million Muslims in Moscow, the mosque serves as a significant centre
for the Muslim community.
Russian’s population is approximately 146 million, with a unique
demographic distribution. About 80% of the population resides in
just 20% of the country’s European territory, primarily in cities such
as Moscow and St. Petersburg. The remaining 80% of the land area,
mostly in Asia, is home to only 20% of the population due to harsh
winters and largely non-agricultural terrain, encompassing regions
such as Siberia and Vladivostok.
Present-day Russia is vibrant, and people generally appear
content. The culture emphasizes living in multi-storey apartment
buildings, with relatively few bungalows, except in rural areas. I did
notice some bungalows and residential colonies while travelling by
high-speed train from Moscow to St. Petersburg.
Russia enjoys communal harmony and peace, with a diverse
population of about 146 million. The religious composition is
approximately as follows: 67% Christians, 7% Muslims, 1%
Buddhists, 3% spiritual but non-religious, 4% undecided, and 11%
non-believers. Generally, religious rituals are not strictly observed.
In the afternoon, we attended a concert by Bollywood singer and
rock star Shaan, organized by the Overseas Bihar Association (OBA)
in Moscow. The event was sponsored by around one hundred
companies doing business in Russia. One of the organizers, Rajjiv
Gupta, proprietor of Cosmo Travels, Moscow, had advised us to plan
our schedule so that we could attend Shaan’s concert at Vegas City
Hall, Moscow, on July 26. I was delighted to reach the venue just in
time. The venue was located in a sprawling area with beautiful
surroundings and landscaped gardens. The concert hall was part of a
large shopping mall situated behind the venue. My brother and I took
our our seats in the VIP section, Arena, Row 4, Seats 1 and 2. The

Indian Ambassador, Vinay Kumar, and the Nepalese Ambassador,
along with a representative of the Government of Russia, were seated
just behind us. The programme began at 04:15 p.m. with the lighting
of lamps by the organizers. Shaan’s concert followed, enchanting the
audience for nearly two-and-a-half hours. The stage was enhanced by
laser lighting, high-voltage sound, and striking visual effects. He
performed several popular Bollywood songs and dance numbers. The
youngsters, mostly from Bihar, enthusiastically joined the dancing
from their seats. It was wonderful to witness the vibrant display of
Bihar and Indian culture, with the audience thoroughly enjoying the
Bollywood show in such an impressive hall in Moscow. For a few
hours, I felt as though I was in a concert hall in Patna. It was a lively
and memorable evening that will always stay with me. It is worth
mentioning that the organizers highlighted that this was the first time
a person from Bihar had been appointed as India’s Ambassador to
Russia. The Ambassador, too, appeared pleased to be the chief guest
and extended his best wishes to the Overseas Bihar Association of
Moscow.
After the Shaan concert, the audience mingled outside the hall for
about an hour, meeting friends and acquaintances. I had a chance
meeting with Rajeev Kumar Ray, Vice-President of OBA (Russia),
whose pharmaceutical company, Ray-Med, was among the prominent
sponsors of the concert. He hails from Motihari in Bihar and, like
many young people from Bihar and India, had come to Russia for his
studies. After completing his education, he decided to become an
entrepreneur in the pharmaceutical manufacturing industry in
Russia. His company is now one of the leading pharmaceutical
manufacturers in the country, with a production unit in the Chechen
region, where its leader, Ramzanov, is also a partner. It was heartening
to see so many successful entrepreneurs from Bihar, particularly in
Russia’s pharmaceutical manufacturing industry. Earlier, Rajiv Gupta
of Cosmo Travel had shared stories of several top-rated entrepreneurs
from Bihar. He spoke about one entrepreneur whose company

reached the top position but later faced problems with mafia
elements, ultimately forcing him to leave his company and return to
India. Rajiv Gupta also mentioned that some successful Indian
entrepreneurs deliberately avoid reaching the very top, fearing
reprisals.
On Sunday, July 27, we booked a Yandex Go taxi to visit the
Kremlin. The driver charged 424 roubles, and when I handed him a
500-rouble note, he claimed he did not have change and ended up
keeping the balance, which I treated as a tip. Later, a Russian
gentleman informed us that drivers often attempt to pocket extra
money using this tactic.
We reached the Kremlin at around 11 a.m. The weather was
excellent, with bright sunshine and an ideal temperature for tourists.
Red Square and the adjacent buildings, churches, and towers were
bustling with hundreds of visitors from around the world, including
many from the Arab countries and Iran.
While standing in Red Square, I felt nostalgic, recalling my
childhood days and my interactions with Russian people working in
Ranchi and Bokaro Steel City. I remembered my early familiarity with
the Bolshevik Revolution under Lenin, along with memories
spanning several decades.
I was eager to explore the mysteries and historical significance of
every corner of the place. The Kremlin represents Russia’s rich
history, with its tall towers crowned by five-pointed stars and its
numerous cathedrals and churches. Facing Red Square is a high red
wall, behind which important government palaces and buildings are
located. I will share more details later.
We reached the Uglovaya Arsenalnaya Tower, where a security
guard was directing tourists to enter the corridor of war heroes and
Lenin’s Mausoleum. The corridor featured memorial slabs of
prominent war generals and veterans laid on the ground, with their
names also displayed on the walls. It was beautifully decorated with
lush greenery. As the names were written in Russian, I could not

recognize most of them. Next, we moved towards the Nikolskaya
Tower, near which stands the Mausoleum of Vladimir Llyich Lenin,
the hero of the Bolshevik Revolution of Russia in 1917. Before
entering the mausoleum, a placard warned visitors not to take
photographs and to maintain complete silence. Inside, it was pitch
dark, and four soldiers stood at attention in the corners. I saw Lenin’s
preserved body, dressed in a suit and checked tie, lying in state. His
face looked remarkably lifelike and fresh, and his body appeared as
though he were simply resting. Lenin’s body has been on public
display since 1924 and has been preserved using embalming fluids
and specialized techniques. During autopsy, his blood vessels and
arteries were removed, and his body was encased in a double-layer
rubber suit. Scientists use micro-injection techniques to deliver
embalming fluids, giving his face a remarkable glow. Standing beside
his body, I paid my respects to the leader who revolutionized
governance worldwide, including in India, where several political
parties are named after Marx, Lenin, and Mao of China. After visiting
Lenin’s Mausoleum, we exited through the gate near the Senatskaya
Tower.
We then headed towards one of the most iconic structures
representing the Kremlin, Moscow, and indeed Russia—the
legendary St. Basil’s Cathedral. I had always found it mysterious but
had never known much about it. In photographs, it appeared like a
large government building, but its design is truly captivating and
unique. The multi-coloured, artistic exterior of St. Basil’s Cathedral,
along with the traditional golden Russian Orthodox crosses atop its
domes, makes it unmistakable. The onion-shaped, colourful domes
and red brick towers draw everyone’s attention. In front of the
Cathedral stands the monument to Minin and Pozharsky, a bronze
statue commemorating national heroes. I was relieved to finally
understand this remarkable building, which had remained a mystery
to me for a long time. Red Square houses many monuments and
museums, such as the State Historical Museum related to the

Patriotic War of 1812, which would require considerable time to
explore. I decided to return later to visit the area around the walled
complex again.
Next, we visited the Memorial of the Unknown Soldiers of
Russia, located within the Red Square complex, where the eternal
flame was burning. Two soldiers stood at rigid attention, wearing
white shirts and black trousers. As it was warm, another soldier
periodically wiped the sweat from their faces with a handkerchief,
even lifting their caps to wipe their foreheads. This ceremonial drill
continued every hour with different sets of soldiers. I learned that this
tribute to unknown soldiers is maintained 24 hours a day, throughout
the year. I stood at attention and paid my respects to the fallen
soldiers.
Beyond the Kremlin and Red Square lies a large park area with
various activities. There is a big mall with eateries, a fountain where
children were splashing around, and a scenic green area with benches,
making it a lively recreational spot. Nearby, a huge bust of Karl Marx
is installed, and a chess competition was underway with around two
dozen tables. The area looked splendid. Okhotny Ryad, Revolyutsil
Square, Theatre Square, Jayanskaya Square, Lubyanka, and the
surrounding areas are vibrant and crowded, and I understand this part
of the city remains lively throughout the night. The Bolshevik
Theatre is located across the road, making it a wonderful place to sit,
relax, and observe people. Although a metro station was nearby, we
booked Yandex Go taxi from the Metropol, a hotel, and returned to
our hotel after dinner at Darbars.
On July 28, we visited the Indian Embassy in Moscow, where I
met the Head of Chancery, Rajnish Patidar, an IFS officer of the 2020
batch, along with other diplomats. A local embassy staff member,
Nikolai, showed us around the campus, including the Ambassador’s
residence. The D.P. Dhar Hall hosts important meetings and official
functions, and there is a board displaying the names of former
Ambassadors. We also visited the Napoleon Dacha, where Napoleon
had stayed briefly during his Russian expedition.

Nikolai speaks English fluently, having studied in Australia, and
was a great help during our Moscow tour. He mentioned that
Moscow’s outskirts face daily drone attacks from Ukraine. Despite
this, I felt a sense of calm in Moscow’s society and system, with no
visible panic or anxiety anywhere, reflecting the country’s strength,
governmental stability, and the maturity of its people.
Nikolai took us on a tour of Moscow, showcasing the city’s
highlights. We saw seven special buildings from the Soviet era and
drove through the city, catching sight of the imposing Moscow State
University tower.
We stood on a bridge in front of Moscow State University,
overlooking a vast valley below. A huge football stadium was nearby,
with the Russian Ministry of Foreign Affairs to its left and the Russian
Academy of Sciences to its right.
We visited VDNKH, the Russian abbreviation for the Exhibition
of Achievements of the National Economy, a permanent exhibition
centre and amusement park showcasing Russia’s accomplishments.
Located opposite Hotel Cosmos, it highlights the history and
achievements of the USSR and modern Russia. The complex features
stunning architecture, fountains, flower gardens, museums, and a
space and rocket museum named after Yuri Gagarin. We even took
photographs with a large statue of Lenin.
We also visited the Victory Park Museum, a sprawling complex
commemorating the Soviet Union’s victories in the World War I and
World War II. The Russian flag flew proudly atop the monumental
architecture.
We continued exploring Moscow’s landmarks, visiting one of the
largest churches in Russia near a bridge over the Moskva River. We
then reached the famous stone bridge, adorned with flower beds on
both sides, with boats sailing beneath it. From the bridge, we spotted
the State Palace, President Vladimir Putin’s residence, recognizable
by its striking rectangular dome with dazzling green and gold accents.
Next, we headed to the Radisson Hotel Ukraine, formerly known

as Hotel Ukraine. Inside, we watched the Panorama of Moscow, a
captivating light-and-sound show depicting Moscow’s history,
narrated in English. This unique experience has not been officially
shared by the owners, though enthusiasts have uploaded clips online,
and I managed to capture a short snippet. Interestingly, the hotel has

retained its original name, Hotel Ukraine, despite the ongoing Russia-
Ukraine war.

In the evening, Nikolai joined us for dinner at Darbars restaurant,
where we enjoyed chicken butter masala, kadai paneer, and tandoori
roti.
On July 29, we slept in and woke up at 7:30 a.m. After getting
ready, we headed to the restaurant for a hearty breakfast with a variety
of delicious dishes, finishing around 11 a.m. At 12:30 p.m., we left the
hotel to meet Rajiv Gupta, the owner of Cosmo Travel and an active
member of the Overseas Bihar Association of Moscow. Rajiv had sent
a car driven by Zaka, who is originally from Afghanistan. Zaka’s
parents had moved from Afghanistan to Tajikistan in 1977 and
passed away there. He came to Russia 15 years ago. We arrived at
Rajiv’s office, where the travel firm’s Russian name was displayed in
small font, in accordance with local regulations. Inside, we met three
staff members, two of whom were from Punjab.
Rajiv Gupta took us to Bunker 42, a historic bunker 65 metres
underground, equivalent to 18 floors below ground and comparable
to the height of Qutub Minar in Delhi (72.5 metres). The bunker,
built between 1950 and 1954, was used by Joseph Stalin to monitor
developments following the dropping of atom bombs by the United
States on Hiroshima and Nagasaki in Japan. It served as a command
centre for military and government operations during periods of
nuclear threat for nearly 30 years, until 1986. We saw an old model
telephone and learned about its role in maintaining communication
during emergencies. Now commercialized, Bunker 42 hosts parties
and group tours. Rajiv treated us to coffee in its studio restaurant,
where we reflected on the Cold War era. Philosophically, I always felt

that the shift to a unipolar world led by America and NATO has been
worse than the Cold War period.
Rajiv Gupta also arranged and paid for a taxi to take us to the Four
Seasons Hotel near Kremlin. On the way, we saw President Putin’s
palace on the right side and the gate he uses to exit the premises.
On July 30, we decided to experience the famous Moscow Metro.
We headed to Rizhskaya station near our hotel, the Holiday Inn. A
one-day ticket card cost 375 roubles and was also valid for bus travel.
Since the vending machine instructions were only in Russian, we
struggled to purchase the tickets. Fortunately, Romilia, a Russian lady
and a civil engineer by profession, helped us buy them. We boarded
the Orange Line metro and later switched to the Red Line to reach
Okhotniy Ryad, near the Kremlin. An Iranian medical student
assisted us in navigating the metro lines. I mentioned India’s support
for Iran and our country’s good relations with it. After reaching
Okhotniy Ryad, we had snacks at the Eurospar restaurant, which
displayed the slogan “We Love Fresh.” We then walked to the
Memorial of the Unknown Soldiers, where the eternal flame was
burning and soldiers stood guard. Next, we headed towards the
Kremlin, where we sat near the red building of the State Historical
Museum of Russia. The weather was pleasant, with bright sunshine
and a gentle breeze. Later, we visited the memorial again and walked
towards President Vladimir Putin’s State Palace, taking photographs
of the entrance gate. Security appeared relatively light, with only one
guard stationed at the crossroads. We watched as vehicles were
checked at the barrier before entering the palace through the gate.
We spent some time admiring a captivating Vietnam exhibition
near Okhotny Ryad and then bid farewell to the Kremlin around 5:30
p.m.
Even before visiting Russia, I had been curious about its history
and culture, and the tour gave me valuable insights. I observed that
the Russian language was imposed on occupied countries both during
the Soviet era and continues to be dominant today, while English and

other foreign languages remain largely restricted in daily life. The
1917 Bolshevik Revolution under Lenin had a profound impact,
enforcing secularism to the extent that religious rituals were banned.
This affected not only Christian practices in Russia but also Islam in
Central Asian countries, where mosques and madrasas were shut
down. On the positive side, the Communist government prioritized
meeting people’s basic needs by providing food, clothing, and
housing, which appeared to reduce visible economic disparities. I
observed similar conditions in other Central Asian countries under
Soviet influence. Due to prolonged Russian occupation, one lingering
cultural impact is the adoption of certain European habits, like the
absence of water faucets in toilets in Muslim Central Asian countries,
a practice that has continued even after independence.
To better understand Russia’s current situation, I seized every
opportunity to speak with locals. Fortunately, the Indian Embassy in
Moscow assigned Nikolai, one of their staff members fluent in both
English and Russian, to guide me. He is a Christian, a true gentleman,
and a scholar. He studied world economy at FEFU, Vladivostok;
business administration at USQ; completed a master’s degree in
world economy; and earned a PhD in national security from the
Presidential Academy. I believe his academic background and
personality indicate a very successful future ahead. Nikolai was an
invaluable source of information on Russia’s challenges. He shared
that Moscow’s outskirts and other regions face frequent drone attacks
targeting infrastructure, oil installations, military units, and railways,
all linked to the Russia–Ukraine war. U.S. sanctions have significantly
impacted Russia’s economy. One surprising point he mentioned the
covert operation of ISIS against Russia. I view ISIS as a proxy
manipulated by America, Israel, and the West, harming Muslim
countries rather than serving their interests. He also spoke about the
influx of illegal immigrants from neighbouring countries. According
to Nikolai, the Chechen people are generally content within Russia,
though tensions sometimes exist between Muslim communities and
the Christian majority, with social harmony fluctuating over time.

Neighbouring Muslim countries that were once under Russian rule
are increasingly resisting Christian cultural influences. Azerbaijan, for
instance, has begun targeting Russian cultural symbols. He
emphasized that India remains a loyal friend of Russia, while Iran is a
strategic partner, much like India.
We discussed with Nikolai the impact of U.S. economic sanctions
on Russia. These sanctions have led to economic challenges, shortages
of technological components, and a stronger dollar, affecting oil and
gasoline prices both domestically and internationally. BRICS

countries remain cautious, avoiding involvement in the Russia-
Ukraine conflict to steer clear of secondary sanctions. Salaries have

declined while prices have risen. Interestingly, about 80% of Russians
support Vladimir Putin, yet many young Russians leave the country
in search of opportunities abroad and are hesitant to return.
On July 31, we checked out of the Holiday Inn Sushchevskiy,
Moscow, at 12 noon. We arrived at Moscow’s Leningradskiy railway
station well ahead of time. I chose to travel by train rather than fly to
St. Petersburg, as I was keen to see Russia’s landscapes and rural areas.
Friends had recommended this option, and I have always found train
(or bus) journeys insightful in understanding a country.
Our train was stationed on the track on time. We boarded Train
No. 744, Coach 12 (Aurora), bound for St. Petersburg. The train
departed exactly at 1:50 p.m. after a passport and ticket check. En
route, passports were checked once again, and I gazed out at the dense
forests lining the tracks, interspersed with rivers and villages. Russia’s
vast territory, stretching all the way to Vladivostok, is sparsely
populated, allowing ample space for forests and agriculture—truly
nature’s gift.
We arrived at St. Petersburg’s Moskovsky railway station at 7:15
p.m., right on schedule, after covering a distance of 641 km in 5 hours
and 25 minutes. Jane from Cosmo Travel greeted us outside Coach
12, holding a placard with “IBRAHIMI” written on it. Outside the
station, we also met an Assamese man working with Yandex Go,

possibly as a driver. Jane paid for the taxi to the Moscow Hotel on
Alexander Nevsky Square, despite my offer to do so.
St. Petersburg, situated vibrantly on the Gulf of Finland and the
Neva River Delta, is the cultural capital of Russia and Eastern Europe.
Our luxury Hotel Moscow enjoyed a prime location, offering
stunning views of the Neva River, passing ships, bridges, and nearby
parks.
From Room 4127, I soaked in the city’s charm both by day and
night. The beautiful scenery visible from our room offered
breathtaking views of the river, bridges, and parklands. The metro
station and a convenience store were located within the hotel itself.
Public transport was seamless, and booking taxis through Yandex Go
was effortless.
On August 1, I woke up at 6 a.m. to bright sunshine. The roads,
already spotless, were being ritually cleaned by water tankers.
We enjoyed a sumptuous breakfast at the hotel restaurant, which
offered a panoramic view of the surroundings. Sitting at tables beside
the glass wall, we felt as though we were dining amid the beautiful
outdoor scenery.
We then headed to Palace Square, also known as Red Square, a
major landmark featuring the Alexander Column, with the
magnificent Hermitage Museum nearby. As I admired the view from
the entrance, Jamil Ibrahimi attempted to purchase tickets from the
vending machine but struggled with the cash payment option. A
Russian gentleman standing nearby noticed his difficulty.
The gentleman kindly purchased two tickets for 500 roubles each
using his card. Jamil offered to reimburse him in cash, but he
graciously declined—an unforgettable act of kindness from a stranger.
The Hermitage is a world unto itself. Located in the former residence

of the Russian emperors, it features opulent rooms and houses world-
class masterpieces. Founded in 1764 by Catherine the Great, it began

as a court museum and was later expanded under Nicholas I, opening
to the public in 1852. Today, it displays over three million items

spanning prehistory to modern times, with outstanding collections in
fine art, archaeology, and numismatics. I was particularly impressed
by the exhibits from India, Iran, and Asia—exploring the Hermitage
was truly fulfilling. Afterwards, we strolled around the Alexander
Column and Palace Square, and even even explored the lively
entertainment and shops located behind the palace.
To plan our next day, we visited the Peter and Paul Fortress,
admiring its island location from the outside. We also took a look at
the Artillery Museum, where World War II tanks and artillery were on
display. All in all, it was a thoroughly satisfying visit.
On August 2, I woke up a bit late, at 8 a.m. The inclement
weather, with clouds and light drizzle, turned the view from my room
window into a picturesque scene, especially the misty bridge over the
Neva River, which looked like a piece of art. Traffic on the roads was
steady, just as it had been at 2 a.m., when the city was still buzzing. St.
Petersburg does not sleep.
From Hotel Moscow, we took a taxi to the Peter and Paul Fortress
on Zayachy (Hare) Island, a major tourist attraction in the Neva
River delta. Founded by Peter I in 1703, the fortress houses several
museums, a spacious cultural centre, and hosts international
exhibitions year-around.
The Peter and Paul Fortress includes several key museums and
exhibitions:
St. Peter and Paul Cathedral
The History of the Trubetskoy Bastion Prison (exhibition)
The History of St. Petersburg–Petrograd 1703-1918 (exhibition)
The Commandant’s House
The History of Peter and Paul Fortress (exhibition along the Neva
Curtain Wall)
Museum of Space Exploration and Rocket Technology
Museum of Science and Technology
Museum of Ceramics

The Trubetskoy Bastion Prison, built between 1870 and 1872,
served as Russia’s main remand prison until 1917. Over 1,500
political prisoners were held in its 69 solitary cells and two
punishment cells—a sobering reminder of the brutality they endured.
After the 1917 Bolshevik Revolution, it was converted into a museum
in 1924, showcasing the prison’s history and its notable inmates. The
visit was a stark confrontation with the harsh realities of the past.
After exploring the museums, we enjoyed a captivating Russian
dance and music performance, reminiscent of similar shows I had
seen in New Delhi. We then sat by the Neva River, taking in stunning
views of the city, sailing ferries, boats, and ships—a scene that will
remain with me for a long time. We returned to the hotel well after
sunset.
August 3, our penultimate day in Russia, began with a boat cruise
to the Gulf of Finland. At Senatskaya Pristan Pier, we purchased
tickets for 1,900 roubles and 1,600 roubles (a senior citizen discount
for me). The 2.5-hour cruise promised to be a highlight of the trip.
Our cruise across the Gulf of Finland, part of the Baltic Sea, was
one of the longer-distance routes. The gulf, bordered by Finland to the
north and Estonia to the south, is a vital seaway for St. Petersburg and
Russia, with cities such as Helsinki and Tallinn along its shores. Our
route took us along the Neva River, the Malaya Neva, the Gulf of
Finland, and the Bolshaya Neva. Highlights included the Lakhta
Centre, Europe’s tallest tower, the ’Three Thousand Years of St.
Petersburg park, and Vyborg port with its oil terminals.
Jane, our guide from Cosmo Travel, was incredibly helpful
throughout our St. Petersburg tour, starting from picking us up at the
railway station. Born and raised in Moscow, Jane (Evgeniya)
graduated from Moscow State University and later studied history
and art in St. Petersburg, eventually becoming a licensed guide.
Fluent in Russian, English, German, and French, she has been
working as a guide for over six years while also caring for her two
daughters.

On August 4, we arrived early at Pulkovo International Airport
(LED), St. Petersburg. After clearing the entrance security check, we
completed check-in, passed through immigration (and a surprise
customs check, possibly for currency monitoring), and underwent a
thorough final security screening, where even belts had to be
removed. At the immigration counter, our passports and boarding
passes were closely scrutinized.
We then headed to Gate 55 for Uzbekistan Airways flight HY
634, scheduled to depart at 13:15 and arrive in Tashkent (TAS) at
20:15. My seat was 25J. With that, we bid goodbye to Russia.