Welcome To Uzbekistan
The history of Uzbekistan began with the ancient Sogdian and
Bactrian kingdoms, which flourished along the Silk Road before being
conquered by Alexander the Great and later integrated into the
Persian, Hephthalite, and Sasanian empires. The region became a
centre of Islamic learning after the Arab conquest in the 7th century,
but it was devastated by the Mongol invasion in the early 13th
century. This was followed by the establishment of a new social and
political order under Amir Temur. From the 19th century onwards,
the region was gradually absorbed into the Russian Empire and later
became the Uzbek Soviet Socialist Republic following the Russian
Bolshevik Revolution.
HISTORY OF UZBEKISTAN UNDER RUSSIAN OCCUPATION
Russia occupied the territory of present-day Uzbekistan in the late
19th century, conquering the Bukhara, Khiva, and Khokand
khanates and incorporating them into the Russian Empire. Russian
rule continued until the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991,
when the Uzbek Soviet Socialist Republic declared independence as
the Republic of Uzbekistan.
MILITARY CONQUESTS BY RUSSIA
Russian forces conquered the region’s Khanates, beginning with
Tashkent in 1865, followed by Bukhara in 1868 and Khiva in 1873.
The Khokand khanate was fully annexed in 1876, completing the
Russian conquest of the region.
PROTECTORATES AND INCORPORATION
The khanates of Bukhara and Khiva became Russian protectorates,
while the Khokand khanate was incorporated directly into the
Russian Empire. The region was subsequently organized as part of the
Russian province of Turkestan.
ECONOMIC CHANGES DURING RUSSIAN OCCUPATION
During both the Russian Empire and Soviet periods, the region
became a major source of cotton for Russia and European markets.
Intensive cotton cultivation caused significant environmental
damage.
During the period of Russia occupation, the ethnic Russian
population in the region increased. The occupation also brought some
industrial development. After the dissolution of the Soviet Union,
Uzbekistan, like other former Soviet republics, declared
independence in 1991.
DEMOGRAPHY
Uzbekistan has a population of approximately 37.545 million. About
97% of the population follows Islam, predominantly Sunni of the
Hanafi school. Christians constitute around 6% of the population.
There are approximately 5,500 Jews and about 1,000 Hindus in the
country. Around 4% of the population identifies as atheist or
agnostic. These figures do not include foreign students from various
religious backgrounds who come to Uzbekistan for studies. In terms
of economic strata, about 89% of the population belongs to the
middle or upper class, while approximately 11% live below the
poverty line, with a daily income of less than USD 6.85.
Linguistically, about 80% of the population speaks Uzbek. There are
around one million native Russian speakers, and Russian is widely
used as a de facto second language. Persian (Tajik) is spoken by
approximately 15% of the population, especially in Bukhara and
Samarkand. The use of English language is now steadily growing. In
schools, a three-language formula has been adopted, under which
English is taught alongside Uzbek and Russian. This reflects the
people’s efforts to connect with the Western world, particularly
Britain and the United States, and also facilitates interaction with
other countries where English is widely used. Before the long period
of Russian occupation, Persian and Arabic were the primary
languages in use until the 1920s. During Soviet rule, the Latin script
was adopted for the Uzbek language between 1928 and 1940. By
order of Joseph Stalin, the Cyrillic script was forcibly implemented
from 1940 to 1991. After Uzbekistan gained independence, a
modified Latin script was adopted in 1992.
HISTORY OF RELATIONS BETWEEN INDIA AND UZBEKISTAN
India has ancient historical ties with Uzbekistan. The Aryans
migrated to India from Central Asia, which includes present-day
Uzbekistan. There were strong trade relations between the regions,
particularly along the Silk Road. Amir Temur of Samarkand invaded
India by crossing the Indus River, conquering cities such as Uch and
Multan, and eventually reaching Delhi. On December 17, 1398, he
defeated the forces of Nasir-ud-Din Mahmud Shah Tughlaq, the
Sultan of Delhi, at the Battle of Panipat. His control extended over
cities including Delhi, Firozabad, Meerut, Haridwar, Kangra, and
Jammu. After appointing Khizr Khan as governor of Lahore, Multan,
and Dipalpur, Amir Temur returned to his homeland in early 1399.
About 125 years later, Babar arrived in India. He was born on
February 14, 1483, in Andijan, in Fergana Valley of present-day
Uzbekistan. His father, Umar Shaikh Mirzo II, was the governor and
amir of Fargana, and his mother was Princess Qutlugh Nigar
Khanum, daughter of Yunus Khan, the ruler of Moghulistan. As a
direct descendant of Temur, Babar Mirza was regarded as a Timurid
prince.
Babar invaded India and defeated Ibrahim Lodi, the Sultan of
Delhi, in the First Battle of Panipat on April 21, 1526. This victory
led to the establishment of the Mughal Empire in India.
ATTRACTION OF UZBEKISTAN
I have always associated Uzbekistan with the Soviet Union and later
as a close neighbour of Russia. After the India-Pakistan War of 1965, a
summit was held between the two countries in Tashkent, the capital
of Uzbekistan, in January 1966 to resolve their differences. An
agreement was signed between them. However, shortly thereafter,
India’s Prime Minister, Lal Bahadur Shastri, died of a heart attack on
January 11, 1966. His body was brought back to New Delhi, where he
was cremated with the highest state honours. Since then, for Indians,
Tashkent has remained closely associated with his memory.
I find that the location of Tashkent is roughly halfway between
Moscow and New Delhi. Uzbekistan has several historical cities,
including Samarkand and Bukhara, in addition to Tashkent. When I
planned my visit to Russia, I had also decided to visit Uzbekistan. I
took Uzbekistan Airways flight HY 634 from Pulkovo International
Airport, St. Petersburg, Russia, along with my brother, Mohammad
Jamil Ibrahimi. My seat number was 25J. The flight departed St.
Petersburg at 13:15 hrs and reached Tashkent (TAS-2) slightly ahead
of its scheduled arrival time of 20:05 hrs.
The aircraft flew over Moscow and remained in Russian airspace
for a long time before entering the airspace of Kazakhstan. The flight
followed a southeastward direction. I tracked the route by selecting
cockpit mode on my seat screen. The plane flew over the Turgay
Plateau of Kazakhstan, where I observed several lakes from above. It
also passed over the Aral Sea and flew near Baikonur in Kazakhstan,
famous for its Soviet-era cosmodrome.
We arrived at Terminal 2 of Tashkent Airport ahead of schedule.
After completing immigration formalities, we exited the airport and
booked a Yandex Go taxi to our hotel, Al Arda Avenue, located near
the Indian Embassy in Tashkent. That night, we had a good rest to
prepare ourselves for the hectic tour ahead.
TASHKENT
History of Tashkent
The history of Tashkent dates back over 2,000 years, beginning as a
Silk Road settlement known as Chach. The city was conquered
multiple times, including by the Arabs in the 8th century and by
Genghis Khan in 1219. After its destruction, it was rebuilt and
prospered again due to its strategic position on the Silk Road. Later,
Tashkent became part of the khanate of Kokand before being
captured by the Russian Empire in 1865, after which it became the
capital of Russian Turkestan. During the Soviet era, the city
experienced significant growth and was extensively rebuilt following a
devastating earthquake in 1966.
Exploring Tashkent
On August 5,we visited the Indian Embassy in Tashkent, where we
met the Head of Chancery, Namo Narayan Meena, who hails from
Rajasthan. We also met Nizomiddin Jumaev, a local staff member at
the Embassy. Mr. Meena had been of immense help and guidance
from the time I began planning my visit to Uzbekistan. Ambassador
Ms. Smita Pant had assigned him to assist us during our stay. The
Embassy currently functions from a rented building; earlier, its head
used to hold the rank of Consul General. Thanks to their support, our
visit was completely hassle-free. Nizomiddin arranged and planned
our hectic three-day tour by coordinating with a taxi driver and
owner, Afzalbek, who is also his friend. In a short time, the entire car-
based tour was efficiently organized. Before embarking on our trip to
Samarkand and Bukhara, we hired another taxi to visit the major
tourist attractions of Tashkent. I would like to highlight that Tashkent
is a well-planned city, full of parks and vibrant flowers everywhere,
even along the roadside, along with beautifully designed buildings
and marketplaces.
We began our sightseeing tour of Tashkent by visiting the statue
of Prime Minister Lal Bahadur Shastri, located at the corner of a park
on Shastri Street. We paid our tributes to the great leader.
Beauty of the Historical Monuments of Uzbekistan
It is worth highlighting that the mosques, madrasas, and even the
mausoleums in Uzbekistan are remarkable engineering marvels. They
were constructed using clay bricks bonded with clay mortars. After
the walls were coated with clay, they were clad with porcelain mosaic
tiles, giving the structures a grand and artistic appearance.
Monuments of Tashkent
Amir Temur Square: We visited Amir Temur Square, where a huge
bronze statue of Amir Temur seated on horseback stands
prominently. The statue is part of a beautifully landscaped park with
benches for visitors. The Uzbekistan Hotel is located behind the
statue.
Kukeldash Madrasa: The Kukeldash Madrasa is situated in the
Chorsu Square area and is one of the most prominent madrasas in
Tashkent.
Muyi Muborak Madrasa: The Muyi Muborak Madrasa is among
the most ancient buildings within the Hazrati Imam historical and
religious complex.
Sacred Heart Catholic Cathedral: The Sacred Heart Catholic
Cathedral serves as a place of worship for the Roman Catholic
community.
Chorsu Bazaar: It is a large, historic open-air market, famous for
its massive blue-domed central building. The word Chorsu means
“four streams” or “crossroads.” The bazaar is located in a vast, old
fort-like structure and is bustling with vendors selling spices, fruits,
vegetables, and traditional crafts. As time was limited, we could not
explore it from the inside.
Amir Temur Museum: The State Museum of the Timurids,
commonly known as the Amir Temur Museum, was inaugurated in
1996 to commemorate the 660th birth anniversary of Amir Temur.
Rakat Masjidi: We visited the Minor Mosque, a stunning
example of modern Islamic architecture built in white marble. The
designated area for wudu (ablution) is located in an adjacent space
rather than inside the main mosque, which helps in maintaining
cleanliness within the prayer hall.
Hazrati Imam Complex: It is a significant religious and
architectural ensemble comprising mosques, madrasas, and a
museum.
Mustaqillik Street: This street features the Independence
Monument, commemmorating Uzbekistan’s Independence from the
Soviet Union in 1991.
After an exhausting yet enriching sightseeing tour of Tashkent, we
embarked on three-day road journey driven by Afzalbek, the owner-
cum-driver, who was experienced and thorough. Despite the limited
time available, we were determined to explore the historical
monuments of Samarkand and Bukhara.
We departed from Tashkent at 6:45 p.m. I had hoped to begin the
journey by 3 p.m., but the driver arrived late at the Indian Embassy.
The road distance between Tashkent and Samarkand is
approximately 306 km. After a four-hour drive, we joined the famous
Silk Road. As we approached Samarkand, traffic became heavy due to
vehicles from eight countries using this route, including Russia,
Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and Afghanistan. We reached Samarkand
around 2 a.m. on August 6. After dinner at a restaurant, where we
enjoyed tasty local burgers, we admired the night-time decorations
and lighting, which were truly worth watching. We stayed at Hotel
Gul Zamim Sayqal.
SAMARKAND
History of Samarkand
The history of Samarkand spans over 2,700 years and is marked by its
rise as a major Silk Road hub, its destruction by Genghis Khan in
1220, and its golden age under Amir Temur in the 14th century. The
city was conquered by Alexander the Great in 329 BCE and later
became a capital of the Timurid Empire before declining and
eventually reviving as a Russian provincial capital and a major railway
centre.
Ancient and Medieval Period
Foundation and Early History: Founded in the 7th century BCE,
Samarkand was initially known as Maracanda and served as the
capital of the ancient state of Sogdiana. It became a key stop on the
Silk Road, connecting China, Persia, and the Mediterranean world.
Later Rule and Destruction: After Alexander’s conquest,
Samarkand came under Persian and later Arab rule. In 1220, the city
was devastated by the Mongol conqueror Genghis Khan following a
revolt against the Khwarezmian Empire.
Modern Samarkand
UNESCO World Heritage Site: In 2001, the city was recognized as a
UNESCO World Heritage Site for its role as a crossroads of cultures,
its rich historical legacy, and its magnificent Islamic architecture.
Historical Monuments of Samarkand
Gor-e-Amir: It is a mausoleum built for the Turco-Mongol conqueror
Temur, also known as Tamerlane.
Shah-i-Zinda Necropolis: It is associated with the legend that
Qutham Ibn Abbas, a cousin of the Prophet Mohammad (PBUH), is
buried there.
On August 6, we began our walking tour early in the morning.
Samarkand is a large and vibrant city with well-laid roads and
beautifully maintained flower beds around its historical monuments
and parks. I found the people to be warm and content, and the cost of
living to be moderate. Tourism is a major contributor to Samarkand’s
economy.
We started our tour with a visit to the Registan Madarsah
Complex. It consists of three magnificent madrasas: Ulugh Beg
(Ulugh’bek), Sher-Dor, and Tilla-Kari. These structures are adorned
with intricate mosaics and vibrant blue-and-gold frescoes. Registan
Square is also sometimes referred to as Reja Chizmasi.
We then visited a modern, developed hill overlooking
Samarkand, where we saw a full-length statue of Islam Karimov, the
first President of independent Uzbekistan. His mausoleum is also
located there, within the Hazrat Khizr Mosque Complex.
At about 2:30 p.m., we explored the Shah-i-Zinda ensemble, a
necropolis and an avenue of beautiful mousoleums.
Later, at around 4:30 p.m., we began our journey to Bukhara,
which is about 280 km away. On the outskirts of Samarkand, we
stopped at the Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum, also known as the Amir
Temur Mausoleum. Inside, we saw several concrete graves in the main
hall, including the grave of Amir Temur, which is identified by a small
black rectangular beam-shaped stone slab placed over it.
We also visited the Bibi Khanym Mosque, which Amir Temur had
constructed in honour of his favourite wife.
On the way to Bukhara, I observed villages and agricultural
farms. Numerous small eateries and soft drink outlets lined both sides
of the road. Most of them promoted Pepsi or other international soft
drink brands, indicating that multinational companies have made
inroads into Uzbekistan and Central Asia, although such brands are
banned in Russia. For a coffee break, we stopped at a small shop
attached to a house, which offered a glimpse into village life. The
house had a small garden in the inner courtyard and also served as a
modest motel for travellers. Food and coffee were prepared in the
household kitchen. I noticed that the toilets were similar to those
found in remote villages of Bihar and other parts of India. There were
no faucets, shower pipes, or taps; instead, people carried water in jars.
I met the daughter of the shop owner, a student of class third in a
school. She was learning three languages—Russian, English, and
Uzbek—and spoke fluent English. I was amazed to see that she was
reading the Quran and the Hadith from a single book printed
simultaneously in three languages: Arabic, Russian, and Uzbek. She
aspired to start her own business when she grew up. We reached
Bukhara before midnight and checked into our hotel.
BUKHARA
History of Bukhara
Bukhara has a long history dating back thousands of years. It began as
an Iranian settlement and later became a major centre on the Silk
Road. The city flourished as a hub of trade, culture, scholarship, and
religion, earning titles such as ‘Noble Bukhara’ and the ‘Dome of
Islam of the East.’ Bukhara served as the capital of various Uzbek
states and, although it suffered destruction during the Mongol
invasions, it remained a centre of significant Islamic learning. The city
houses important monuments such as the Samanid Mausoleum and
numerous madrasas. It became part of the Abbasid Caliphate but was
devastated by Genghis Khan in 1220, after which it was rebuilt.
Bukhara emerged as a major centre of education, once boasting
over 200 minarets, and it had a significant Jewish community during
the 19th and 20th centuries. The Russian Empire later gained control
of the region, although local khanates retained some autonomy. The
city underwent major disruption during the Russian conquest and the
subsequent period of Soviet rule. The renowned Persian Sunni
scholar Imam Bukhari was born in Bukhara around 810 CE. He
compiled Sahih al-Bukhari, one of the most authentic and revered
Hadith collections in the Islamic world.
On August 7, we woke up early and set out to explore Bukhara on
foot. An ancient Silk Road centre of trade, culture, and religion,
Bukhara’s historical monuments beautifully reflect centuries of
Islamic architectural excellence.
Historical Monuments of Bukhara
The city is home to several important historical monuments, listed
below:
Lyabi-Hauz Ensemble
Lyabi-Hauz literally means “by the pond.” This particular pond is just
one of the hundreds that existed throughout the city during the
Middle Ages.
The Ark of Bukhara
This impressive fortified castle has been a symbol of power for
millennia. In this context, Ark means citadel. Until the early 20th
century, brutal torture and executions were carried out in front of the
Ark.
Bolo Hauz Mosque
A historic mosque built in 1712, located opposite the Ark Citadel in
the Registan district. It served as the private place of worship for the
ruling Khans.
Poi-Kalyan Ensemble
This ensemble features the iconic Kalyan Minaret, Kalyan Mosque,
and Mir-i-Arab Madrasa.
Chor Minor Mosque
It is a unique 19th-century structure distinguished by its four
separate minarets.
Samanid Mausoleum
It is one of the oldest surviving buildings in the region and a
masterpiece of early Islamic architecture.
Abdulaziz Khan Madrasa
Built in medieval architectural style, it reflects the artistic excellence
of its time.
Magoki Attori Mosque
It is known for its blend of ancient foundations and reconstructed
architectural elements.
On August 8, we reached Tashkent at around 2 a.m. We had
booked a room at Hotel Al Arda Avenue, where we had stayed earlier
for one night. Throughout the day, the daytime manager kept sending
me WhatsApp messages, informing us that the hotel was expecting
our arrival. However, when we reached the hotel at 2 a.m., the
daytime manager was off duty, and the night-duty staff were unaware
of our reservation. They informed us that no rooms were available. It
was a horrible experience, especially at such a late hour. After some
hassle, we were shifted to a nearby hotel, Hafiz Plaza, which turned
out to be quite good. We finally went to sleep around 3 a.m. Mentally,
we were prepared for such situations, but the biggest challenge was
the language barrier. In Central Asian countries, the English language
is gradually gaining ground due to increased interaction with British
and American companies. We woke up a little late, at 8.30 a.m. First,
we had breakfast at the hotel within the designated time. Then we
took showers and went out to continue our activities.
August 8 was the penultimate day before our departure from
Uzbekistan and return to New Delhi. As it was a Friday, we decided to
offer Jum’ah Namaz at Rakat Masjid, one of the two largest mosques
in Tashkent, also known as the Uzbekistan Mosque. I was pleasantly
surprised to see that thick grey paper towels were provided in
abundance for drying the face and arms after wudu (ablution).
Perhaps nowhere else in the world is such a special facility provided
for those offering Namaz. We offered our prayers in the main hall.
The Imam delivered his sermon in Uzbek, with portions in Arabic.
The interior decoration of the dome was splendid and highly artistic.
After the Namaz, I happened to meet a schoolteacher named Abdul
Malik, who teaches Mathematics and speaks fluent English. Through
him I met three or four other people, and we discussed the
arrangements for Namaz. I appreciated the provision of thick paper
towels for drying the face and arms after ablution. However, I pointed
out that there were no faucets, hand showers, or water taps in the
toilets. People had to carry water in jars, which often did not hold
enough water for proper washing. I also mentioned that although
tissue paper was available in some toilets, it was missing in many
places such as hotels, restaurants, and offices. Among the group were
two individuals who had performed Hajj. I asked them why the toilet
practices common in Arab countries and other Asian nations,
including India, were not followed. I explained that without proper
washing with water, one remains impure and is therefore unfit to offer
Namaz.
In the afternoon, we visited the famous Timurid Museum.
Afterwards, we decided to relax in our room at Hotel Hafiz Plaza, as
we had an early-morning return flight the next day.
Timurid Museum of Tashkent
After Uzbekistan gained independence in 1991, significant attention
was given to reviving the nation’s spiritual and cultural heritage,
including recognizing historical figures who played important roles in
world civilization. Among them was Amir Temur, a warlord,
politician, and visionary leader, as well as a patron and promoter of
science, education, trade, culture, craftsmanship, architecture, fine
arts, music, and poetry, who laid the foundation of the Timurid
Renaissance.
The first President, Islam Karimov, encouraged the celebration of
Timurid achievements. Karimov declared 1996 as the “Year of Amir
Temur” to mark the 660th anniversary of Amir Temur’s birth.
Subsequently, a state museum was built in central Tashkent
showcasing Timurid history. The museum’s collection includes more
than 5,000 artefacts, with over 2,000 displayed in the exhibition
halls. The museum displays focus on Amir Temur’s genealogy, his rise
to power, military campaigns, diplomatic and trade relations, urban
development, and contributions to science and education. The
exhibits also represent members of the Timurid dynasty and include
maps, weapons, copper and silver coins, miniatures, rare manuscripts,
pottery, and jewellery.
The museum attracts more than two million visitors annually. It is
frequently visited by foreign statesmen and official delegations, with
over 800 such delegations recorded in the museum’s guest book.
As I wandered through the museum halls, I encountered exquisite
calligraphy, lavish gold painting used in royal portraits, intricately
carved wooden panels, stunning miniatures, and awe-inspiring
ceramics. Each piece reflects the artistry and craftsmanship of the
Timurid era. Beyond the artefacts, the Timurid Museum also offers
interactive exhibits that bring history to life.
On the morning of August 9, we reached Tashkent TAS-2 Airport.
We went through the usual procedures of check-in, security screening,
and immigration. Our Uzbekistan Airways flight HY 423 was
scheduled to depart at 08:45 a.m., with boarding at 8:05 a.m. I sent
thank-you messages on WhatsApp to Namo Narayan Meena and
Nizomiddin for their help.
While waiting for boarding, I met Pushpendra Kumar Sharma, an
engineer working in the agriculture sector of Indorama, a company
with operations in cotton, yarn, textiles, fertilizers, and
petrochemicals. He hails from Azamgarh in Uttar Pradesh and has
been working in Uzbekistan for past year. He shared insights on
several issues. Indian doctors and Indian medicines are highly valued
in Uzbekistan, and many people travel to India for medical tourism,
as treatment there is relatively cheaper than in other countries. Water
scarcity is a major concern, as the country receives very little rainfall
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and imports water from neighbouring nations. Apartments built
specially for Indian workers have toilet facilities such as taps, shower
pipes, and water jars, similar to those in India. Indian workers who
stay for some time learn to speak Uzbek. China and Turkey are major
business players in Uzbekistan, and their products are widely
imported.
Our flight departed on schedule. During the journey, we saw
white, gleaming mountains and hills from which silver ore is
extracted. Uzbekistan is also rich in other minerals, including gold,
uranium, and copper. Other important mineral resources include
natural gas, tungsten, lead, and zinc. The duration of the flight was 3
hours and 15 minutes. The aircraft landed at Terminal 3 of Indira
Gandhi International Airport, New Delhi, at 12:35 p.m. IST.